The Bamboo Bridge Trek

The trek lies in the heart of East Khasi Hills district of Meghalaya. One takes the road to the well known tourist destinations of Mawlynnong and Dawki from Shillong. One reaches Pomlum village, roughly ten kilometres away from the Umtyngar bridge. From here, a prominent signboard directs you to take the right turn from the highway towards Wahkhen village, which lies roughly 5-7km away. This final stretch has broken roads, though any vehicle can take you there. Wahkhen is the start point of the trek to Mawryngkhang- the king of stones. This is a huge massif of stone that stands out as an island apparently isolated from the rocky cliffs nearby.

Wahkhen is a recent addition to the tourist map of Meghalaya, an achievement of the villagers themselves without any substantial assistance from the government. The village houses a traditional music school that offers training in the local form of music to the trainees. A variety of traditional musical instruments are lined up inside a one-room school.

The legend behind Mawryngkhang states that the all conquering Mawrynghang, the King of Stone fell in love with a girl from another kingdom, Mawpator. In a battle between the two kingdoms, U Mawpator injured Mawryngkhang. However, Mawryngkhang succeeded in beheading Mawpator. His head fell down in the gorge, which today stands as the famous rock.

Our trek was organised by the Trekking Tourism Promoter Society, Wahkhen on 4^th Nov 2017. The other trekkers comprised two buses full of school students from Shillong, along with individual trekking enthusiasts, all from Meghalaya. The trekking started from the village football ground and the initial part was a steep 20 minute downhill to the Umrew river, among the cleanest in the region. The sparkling water of the river was a treat to behold. The water was crystal clear, with the river bed sparkling in the warm sun. This was where the surprises started and continued right upto the Mawryngkhang. The villagers, without any external assistance, had constructed multiple bridges using only bamboo, tied with cane ropes across the river. Few nails were used in the construction.

The bridges were remarkably sturdy, safe and comfortable to walk on. Even after crossing the river, the bamboo track continued all along the steep, rocky cliffs, making the otherwise difficult trek a breeze. Exceptionally steep uphills were made easy with bamboo ladders. The trail continued along the river, gradually going higher and higher. The bamboo track was so sturdy that one did not even hear the creaking on the bamboo underneath ones feet.

After another 45 minutes, the track suddenly becomes steep for a short distance and one reaches the Mawryngkhang view point, which offers a bird’s eye view of the Rngain valley down below. The Mawryngkhang rock stands right in front in all its glory seemingly isolated from the neighbouring cliffs. After a short  break at the view point one is tempted to move ahead. But beware!!! The trek from hereon is not easy. People with reasonable degree of fitness only should attempt it. The trek ahead has been rather smartly negotiated between rocks with steep uphills and downhills. At times, one has to really squeeze underneath the rocks. The final part is a scaringly steep climb up a ladder that takes you up the Mawryngkhang Massif. Thereafter, the fencing and the bamboo track on the rock enables you the circumnavigate the rock. When one sits on the rock to take in the view, one is filled with a gush of satisfaction at the accomplishment. That is only till one sees barefoot and seemingly fragile local women and children strolling past you as if it were a walk in the park. It is then one realises that the bamboo structures have been erected only for outsiders. The villagers are too fit to need all that paraphernalia and can cover route without any support. After a break, when one starts back, one realises the enormity of the task of the walk back, especially to the view point. The entire trek takes around 3 hours for an average trekker.

You might have seen plenty of treks and will see many more. You might have many accomplishments against your name. But trekking on bamboo tracks for a major part of the route is not one comes across every day. The structures created are indeed a tribute to the dedication of the villagers.